Sewjo... Lilian Top & Collins Dress

Sewing Club Episode 27 CUT2: To the Sewing Club podcast. I am Kylie from Kylie and the Machine. And I am Gemma from Sewing Gem. Welcome. And today's episode is a fun one. It's a sojo, which means Gemma and my choice of outfit. And today's episode is sponsored by the Fold Line. Yeah, we were really lucky to have our pick of patterns from the Fold Line, so we thank them very much. We had a lot of fun doing that. So we'll talk a bit more about that later, won't we, Kylie? How have you been? I have been very busy. How about you? Yeah, pretty busy. Pretty busy. yeah, a bit of travel and then also busy with work as well. So yeah, life's been good but busy. Good way to sum it up. Yeah. Have you been working on anything? Yeah, I've I've been working on I've been meaning for a really long time to add an alterations course to our Sewing Gem Studio course, you know, catalogue. and I finally got myself together and did that. I actually, yeah, I've been spending a little while on doing some samples and getting the course already. So I'm really excited to have that ready to go. I think it will be a really great course for people that I think so often I was hearing people were coming in to do the first stitches, which is the first beginner class, and I would be saying, you know, what do want to get out of the class? What do you want to be able to do? And so often I was hearing people say, Well, I'm really short, or I'm really this. I want to be able to take my pants up, or I want to be able to take this in here, or I've got this problem, I want to just make this little tweak to my garment. Yeah. and so often I was hearing that, which was why it was in the back of my mind as something we really needed to add to the classes. So it's a good class. It teaches people like various different ways of hemming, because as you would know, there are so many different ways. it's about taking in side seams, adding in darts. taking in waistbands, what else have we got? you know, hemming garments like jeans, but keeping the original hems, like all those things that people want to be able to do basically because they don't want to have to take it to an alterations place. They want it they think I can do this myself. so that's what the course is all about. Right. That sounds really fun and necessarily for someone that wants to sew the garments from start to finish. It's someone that wants to take already made garments or thrifted things and make them fit them better. And I kind of felt like the people that were coming through the door for the first teacher's class were kind of falling into two camps. There were the people like myself who love the idea of being able to sew and I want to be able make this and this. And there were other people that were probably there for a more practical reason. I need to get my head round my machine because I want to be able to take my pants up or my kids' waistbands in or they weren't necessarily wanting to make their own clothes, but they just wanted a better understanding of sewing and how things go together and how they can tweak things, shoulder l strap length and things like that. So yeah. Yeah, it's it reminds me of, when, back in the day it was very common for people to get a sewing machine as a wedding gift. Yes. And it's like, some people would sew everything for them but some of them would be using it for more practical reasons when everyone had a sewing machine at home. So That's great. I always remember my mother in law saying to me once when I got her machine out that she hadn't used for a few years. She goes, Well, I did fix the dog bed with it once, you know. It's like one of those machines that was in the house. No one really used it unless it was really, you know, really serious. The dog bed's got a hole in it, so we've to get the machine out, you know. so yeah, I think people do fall into d d different camps and I I get that, you know, some people just want to understand how a sewing machine works and then be able to be a practical fix things, solve problems with it. So I think this is what this course is appealing to. Yeah, great. Well if you're listening to this podcast or watching us on YouTube and you're n wanting to, you know, learn how to alter garments, well, yep. Gemma's a great teacher. Thank you. Thank you, Kylie. great. So what's going on with you? just all about advent calendars. Of course. Exciting. Yeah. So they're available now. We've Gotten to the to the end of the production point and now we're telling everyone about them and yeah it's been a big project and we are very happy to have them now selling in the world and yeah thank you to anyone that's already secured their copy and for anyone that's interested, we do an unboxing every day in December to show you know what's behind the window. And a lot of people find it fun to, you know, play along at home and then see what we do. And yeah, it's a lot of fun. It's a gift for you, you know. So tell us about the advent calendar this year. yeah, okay. So well it's it's the sew in labels and it's, you know, an advent calendar with 24 windows, and then we do also have a 12 window sweary version, and that's because so many people were asking us every year to do that. but yeah, so the pop a window every day and then you end up with completely new labels that you don't already have and they're all different colors and sizes and variety of, you know, designs and things that are on them and then you have this huge variety of labels that you can use throughout the year for yourself and other people that you're sewing for. And yeah, it's just a lot of fun. It's it's like candy, but it's candy for sewists. Absolutely. And is there a theme with this year's advent calendar? Or not really. Just more general. Okay. We we get an artist every year to collaborate with. And the artist that we've chosen this year, she's actually Australian or but she's well, she's Australian German, but she's living in Italy. Okay. so when we choose an artist that is from another country, oftentimes we have like one label to pay homage to the region that they're from. So that's a little hint. But her art is very fun. There's lots of reminiscent Aussie things on the front as well. like a Pavlova. no. It looks like it I mean, think if you didn't know what it was, it kinda looks maybe like a a cupcake or a cake. But yeah, it's and there's some little characters that we dreamed up with her. And yeah. So lots of fun. It's surprised being a big kid. Yeah. Opening it up every day. I'm excited already. Yeah. And then the sweary one is just twelve days of sweary labels, and that's a lot of fun too. So you're living, breathing all things up in Cannabis at the moment. Yes. Okay. Yes. Yes. And it's it's it's really great because it's a surprise for everyone. But I'm so dying to sew with the labels. And I have been sewing with the labels. We can't like share them with anyone. Are you wearing any today? Maybe. No. Cool. All right. Well. So we should talk about the fold line. We should. If you haven't already heard about the fold line, they are an online sewing pattern and they have other items as well. But their their pattern shop is huge. Massive. They basically are like a stockist of lots of different independent pattern companies. So you know, each month we review a pattern from, one pattern company and, you can have a look and they have their selection of patterns. But sometimes you're looking for something specific, like maybe you're looking for a top or a bottom or a a dress or a jacket or something. And it's really awesome to like browse because you're looking at all these different brands at once. It's like a department store for PDF patterns. Yes. And they have paper patterns as well. They do. And I think they have some of the big four as well, do they? Yeah. Yeah. it's like a huge resource. And it was great fun going shopping. It was like, what shall I pick? Yeah. Do you want to So it was like free range, right? It's yeah, sojo as in Kylie and Gemma can do what they want. But then we had this huge range of patents to choose from. I don't know about you, but I put like about twenty in my cart. Yeah. And then I kept having to like cull them. And then It was hard to pick, yeah. And then I had to ask all the girls in the office. I'm like, what do you think? And then yeah. So are you gonna reveal which which pattern you made? Yes. So I made this top. Nice. I love it. I love the slip. the Lillian by Fiber Mood. Cute. And I made the Collins dress by Friday Patent Company. Friday Patent Company. We we We reviewed their p pattern. That was our second episode. It was. And I I looked through and I I obviously I was thinking, what I wanted to find something that I knew I was gonna wear. And as we all know, I love a good stretch number. And so when I saw this dress, I did think, is it a bit similar to something I've made before? But now I've made it, I'm I'm really super, super happy. When I saw the picture of it, I thought, that is so jammer. Yeah. We were like, that is similar to the dress that you made before, but it if you like something. Yeah, and I'll I'll I'll talk more about this later, Kylie, but it is quite different in how it's constructed and I really like the way it was constructed. So I'll talk a bit more about that and how it goes together. Was that a dress that they had when back when we reviewed them? Is it newer? I actually don't remember. I'm not sure. I haven't looked into when it was released. That's a good question. we should find out about that. Yeah. but no, it's it's got a different construction method to the one that I've made before that's was a stretch knit dress. And yeah, I really I like some of the features in it, but we'll we'll talk more about that later. Yes. Well, what fabric did you make yours in any? I actually got my fabric from Ruby Jam fabrics, which are a great stockist of lots of stretch fabrics. and it's French terry with like cotton cotton French terry with lycrain as well, or elastic, I should say. and they had such great colours. I actually brought two colours. I had this light purple colour, but I also brought a coral as well. and I'm probably gonna make another one of these in the coral, but because there's a few things I'm gonna change in the neck the next time I make it. so yeah, watch this space. I might be wearing the coral one next time. Yeah. Well, I would really like to see the dress, the full length of dress. So can you get up and give us a little twirl? gosh, try not to knock my drink bottle over. So I'm gonna describe it for those that are just listening. It is a like a body hugging knit dress with a scoop neckline and the shoulders are kind of just on the they're what do you call them? Like cap shoulders. There's almost tapped, yeah. Yeah, and they and then there's a l a lower scoop at the back and it's midi length. Like it's almost maxi, but it's but it's not it's not quite. And then she's wearing it with a lovely pair of gold strappy heels. why not? I don't actually have to walk Kylie, so I'll wear them today. The dress actually has two options as well at the back. We can't hear you. yeah. Sorry. Shall I just pretend I sat down and We've all had a lovely look at that. It's it's very beautiful. You feel nice wearing that? I love it. I really like it. I do like a nice stretch dress. you were saying about the options? Sorry, I was saying the the back actually has two options. So there is that was the low back, and there is a higher back. Okay. and what I hadn't realised, and this is we're getting on now to the the nitty-gritty, but what I hadn't realised was that when I cut the low back, it was it is quite low. At least on me anyway, it is quite low. And I cut Definitely could not wear a bra with it unless you wanted to see the bra. You even the back band, it wasn't just straps. So you can you could see the straps and you could see the back band. So the dress itself, I think, if you go for the lower back option, is actually designed to be worn without a bra because it has an inbuilt shelf bra inside it as well. So it is possible to wear without a bra, but it probably wouldn't be my first choice. But I think I could just about get away with it. So did you have to cut another back? No. I d this is this is me not wearing a bra. I see. Yeah, and it's got a shelf bra in it. But there are a few things I'll change. So what I'm gonna do when I make the coral one, I don't wanna do the high b back, but I'm just gonna cut it so at least I could wear a strapless bra with it. Not necessarily straps. I actually quite like the the capped sleeve here and that that is the only option. There are different length options. You can make a top version. that'd be a nice top too. Yeah, absolutely. And the only other thing That I would probably tweak next time. And I am a bit borderline. So it came in two cup options. Okay. Either a, a standard size, I'm assuming up to a C cup. And then it was a D plus cup. And I'm on the cusp of those. So I made the bigger size. And what they actually do to accommodate the bust in this dress is that they ease in down the side here. And I think ha I could probably get away with the the smaller cup size next time. So I think this works and I'm very happy. But when you make something you're just like, that's You don't want it to be too small. It Yes. But it is there is quite a lot of gathering here. Whereas I feel like I could get away with making the the same size which was the medium, but using the smaller cup size. So Well the shelf bra looks really nice, though. Okay, cool. It's always good to know. It must f it feels nice and secure, right? It does it does. Look, I wouldn't want to go disco dancing in it, I'm not gonna lie. sitting here recording the podcast is fine. Hopefully it's not too cold. Yeah. It's actually quite hot in this video. More like sweating than the opposite. Sweat marks instead, no. and the only other thing was you know, probably being yeah, having had a couple of children and all the rest of it, the ruching kind of starts up here for me, whereas I don't think I need it there. I need it just a little bit lower, so I'll probably just move that that sort of basically you ease in the the extra length. in the front piece to the back. So the back is shorter and the front is longer and then you ease that in to create that extra space. And I feel like my easing in just needs to start a little bit lower down next time. So you're it And think you've chosen perfect fabric weight. You know, like that French terry like a light French terry. It's it's 'cause it's got that thickness to it. So it's not, you know, it doesn't reveal like every little you don't want it to be like too. clinging to you. And I was a bit worried about that with the light colour, but I think it's okay. I think I can yeah it's it's it's very opaque is what I mean. Yeah. I do know what you mean. And it gives it little bit of a buffer between you and you like the outside world. Because some of some stretch fabrics can be a bit too thin. yeah you feel like you can see every, lump and bump or whatever. and I don't feel like that in this fabric. It actually feels really soft. It's smooth. it's very it's got a very nice smoothness to it. Yeah, exactly. And that's if you do buy a knit dress, ready to wear, it's usually made from some polyester pony and stuff like that, which is i you know, a cheap way of making a smooth, thickish dress, but the cotton French terry would be much nicer to wear. It feels r I wanted it to feel like it could I mean obviously I've got gold shoes on today and I'm not gonna wear them but I could also put on a pair of slides or whatever and dress it down a little bit as well with the French cherry. Yeah, exactly. And it could just be a bit more relaxed. But then you could also make a version of this dress that could be really dressy as well, you know. so I I like the versatility of it, but it's also comfortable to wear. So there's a few things I'd like to play around with next time, but I'm really happy with the, you know, as a s as a starting point and it's definitely a dress I'm gonna wear a lot. So fair enough. And it's the Collins dress. Yes, I've got that. I've I when you said the collins dress, I thought you were talking about another pattern. Because you know how there's so many patterns and everyone has named their patterns. Yes. And then sometimes there's a couple of patterns that have the same name. it's if the f it's there's another column. There's another colon stress. I don't know. Well, there's a Collins top or something. That's why I thought you were drawing the top. And then I saw it and I thought, that's that's different to how I imagined it. Yeah, so that's the shorter version there. And I think there's a picture of the top version on the inside, if I can just quickly find it. And I do love their patterns 'cause they always have their fun little yeah. Have fun sewing. I believe in you. Yes. The little characters with the faces on it. I'm pretty sure. They're so encouraging. They are. I love it. here we go. Here's the top version. So here we go. We've got the long dress, the mini dress, and then the what they call the shirt and that's just being worn there. So Yeah, in because you know you wear a lot of sort of denim shorts and things. I think I do. It would be a nice it would suit you to have tops. A few tops that would Maybe I need to make a few tops. Yeah, I think you're right. Okay, that should be next on my list, I think. Yeah. I'm just trying to think if it was anything else. And the cup size was the main thing I'd probably change. Yeah, I think that's everything. You could tell us about yours now, Kylie. Yes. well look, I I'll say this. My what I have, this finished version, is a finished version of a top. Yeah. But I don't know if it's necessarily this top, because I did change some things. Okay. You know, like I love how you do this. And I think well what It's it's my own fault, 'cause I looked at the picture and I and I in my mind thought of how it would be constructed based on just the picture of it. Yeah. and it's it's obviously like a woven top that's lined and the the first layer is quite like bubbly. there's more fabric in the top than in the lining. Yeah. And then and I thought, you know, it's gonna have facings and it's gonna be this and it's gonna be that. And then silly me. I got the pattern, I printed it out and I was ready to cut it out. I'd chosen the fabric and then I realized that it's not constructed like that at all. It's actually a lot of elastic. And I just don't want more I don't really like elastic that much because, you know, we talked about this. It's just it doesn't last as long and, you know, it's not as secure. I don't know. And then feel a bit restrictive as well, I think elastic in things. And it doesn't always sit exactly how you want it to. so I did, you know, initially follow the instructions and then the neckline has elastic in them. and then I don't know if it was like the wrong elastic or I don't know, but it just didn't look right. And then I just pulled it all out and then I ended up gathering it and putting a binding over the top. Well, I love it. I think it looks fantastic. How are you getting the kind of the shoulder is standing out. How are you managing to get that effect? Yeah, so also so basically after like the neckline didn't work out, I just threw away the instructions and just went rogue again. I love it. So yeah, and also like I cropped it a bit. I I don't know, 'cause it it may look a bit too long in the picture. I the person in the picture has a way longer torso than I do and I knew it wasn't gonna work for me and I actually didn't want it to be bubbly at the bottom as well. and that was also meant to be elastic. So I was like, okay, throw away the rules. There are no rules now. I'm just gonna for it. I just want something that I want to wear. I'm gonna wear. Yep. So I did like the actual pattern and the pattern pieces are this pattern. It's just the cons construction is different. But I imagine for you, with most tops that you make, you're gonna be shortening them. Yes. Because they're not gonna be based on someone of your height. They're more like to be, I don't know, like this pattern, for example, is based on someone that's five foot six, which is basically my height. Yes. And so it was perfect. So you must be calling it five foot. Two or something. USB short also. Yeah. Taking quite a lot out. Yeah, yeah, definitely. No, so this is a facing. Okay. And but I just added that in. Okay. Well the other thing is I didn't have been elastic. You're meant to have two layers of the same fabric. So that where it meets, you wouldn't know you could s it didn't matter if you saw a little bit of it. Yeah. And then so yeah, but you can see it I didn't have enough. So I have a light cotton and then I just used a little facing there that's in the same fabric. I feel like now would be a good time for you to stand up and do a situation. Before you do that though, Kylie, can't you I know that you've also made your trousers, so you should tell us about those in a minute as well. so Kylie is wearing this very cute little top, which she's hacked a lot, but it looks amazing. It's got it's gathered around the neckline and it's kind of got these shoulders that are slightly standing out. and and did you say they g they've got a facing on the inside of the armhole which is creating that gathered look. and she's shortened it. and it looks amazing. And tell us about your trousers as well, Carly, 'cause they look amazing with it. So I this is one of the few patterns that I've I will have all intentions on making patterns again that we make on the podcast because I love I love most of them and usually The one I've made for the podcast is basically a twelve because I, don't usually I'm not I'm not Kylie draft. I'm Kylie last minute. So yeah. this is basically like 'cause I actually don't wear the other co's because like they're perfect, but they just don't fit me. So I really wanted to make another pair of the co trouser. what did you change? My daughter Judy. I just made it in a s size down. Okay. Great. And That's it actually. Cool. They look amazing. I love I love the I didn't make the tie. you know how it has the belt? Yes. I I I did cut it out, and I might still make it, but I just don't think it needs it. I don't think it needs it. I think, yeah. What's the fabric that you've used? It's kind of like it's like a cotton canvas-y type of thing. Has it got some stretch in it? No. No. No stretch. But you're making me want to make another pair because I love my co trousers. But unfortunately I have changed shape a little bit since I made them. So they don't fit me in the way I'd like them to fit me. In fact, they're uncomfortable. You fit them perfectly to yourself at the exact same time when you made those. I love those. They're I was so jealous of yours. Yours are so nice. They fit me perfectly, but unfortunately times change, Carly. Well times have changed for me too. so yeah, I'm now looking at yours thinking, I need to make another pair of those. If only we loved elastic waisted pants more. And then we just make all elastic waisted pants and then then it wouldn't matter. I mean I keep telling myself I'm gonna get back into them, but you know, it's a work in progress. No, you're better off making more clothes that fit you. And that's the joy of sewing, right? Yes. So I'm just gonna tweak that pattern and make myself another pair, because I can. Yes. Well, don't get rid of all the clothes that don't fit you because That's the thing I I've done. I've gotten rid of clothes because, I ha they didn't fit me for a while and then I've kneaded them again later, but then I've and then I got rid of more clothes and that yeah, no. Yeah, you're right. I'm hanging on to them, don't worry, you never know. So yeah. Yes. Well I actually made this as an outfit. Like I actually planned this. I planned because I'd cut these out and I th and I was gonna make these for our sojo episode. And then we got the opportunity to do to choose something from the gold line and then I chose this and I chose this fabric. It's a linen It's like a tiny gingham check, but it's linen and it's really nice and light. Yeah, I really like that. And I and then I thought this will go nicely together as a nice daytime lunch outing. So where are you going? Where are you taking? We should do it. Yeah. Somewhere to where all our you know, podcasts makes. Yeah, that's right. You're up for it, Sal. Yeah, I I really I g I can't say I enjoyed making this because I was like, no, I'm changing everything and then I'm like, I've got to make it up. But basically anywhere that had elastic now just has gathers. Yeah. Well I think what you've done looks great. I mean I don't can you hold up what the actual top looks like on the front of the pattern so we can see. Okay. Yeah. So it does look quite it looks quite and I think the length is really the the the biggest thing. But I I like Yeah, and it's got the gathering at the bottom. So it in in In this version, all the four holes are connected with the lining. Got you. Whereas mine I didn't connect the lining under here. Yeah. Okay. Yeah. Because it wasn't necessary. And then I just put these little splits at the side just because I mean just want more air conditioning. Yeah. And I think it's a nice little detail as well. It looks really nice. Because it's cropped. Yeah. It's nice to have something, yeah. Yeah. I call that did you call that Capri Hem? Is that what it's called? You're the one that's trained, aren't you? I'm not really trained. If it's not in a sewing pattern, I don't know. If it hasn't been talked to me in a sewing pattern, I don't know. I'm gonna call it that anyway. Cute little caprihem. we'll go with that. I I wanted to mention actually with this dress as well, Carly, that it I mentioned at the beginning that it's made and constructed slightly differently to the other stretch knit dress that I'm different. so it's different because it uses the burrito method with the bodice, which is so quick. And so easy. Yeah. it's one of those things when you look at instructions. We've d definitely done other garments with using the burrito method. And you look at it sometimes on the in the instructions and you scratch your head a little bit and you go, even in the instructions, I think it says head to our YouTube, or you know, because it's once you see this visually, you'll get it. And it's really quick, it comes together. much quicker. The other dress I made had binding around the neckline and the armhole. That's more fiddly. Which is more fiddly. And I love the finish on it, but what I loved about this dress was it was just it just came together really quickly. I like the smooth finish. I like the smooth finish. I think it makes a lot of sense. And if I think about a lot of my ready to wear tops that are s knit, they are they don't have binding on the edge. They have they're they're basically the same deal. Burrito or just lined effectively. It's more sleek. More sleek and it it just works better, I think. so that was something I loved about this dress. I wanted to say as well, it was all it's always great. I always feel good when I get a chance to dust my cover stitch off. Because it's one of those machines that at the time I told myself I desperately needed in my life. And sometimes it can sit on the shelf for quite a long time gathering dust. And I and I feel that guilt that I've, you know. Told myself it was an essential item. So when I use it, I'm like, yep, tick, my cover stick. I see I did need it. Yep. So that's it. It's very expensive thing to just need for one like application. But when you want that nice finish on the hem. Yeah. It's there. It's there. And I I also what I love doing when I'm making knits, knit dresses or tops, and I think I've mentioned this before. Is they are really easy to fit, but it is always nice just to check the fit. And I love to use Mariflex, or there's other versions as well. There's Gutamundo version as well. So the Mariflex is the Metla version. and the now I've got that the wrong way around. Sorry. Gutaman is Mariflex and the Metla version is Ceraflex. and basically it is stretchy thread. that you can stitch something together that's gonna be made out of a knit and quickly try it on, baste it together and just check it's going to fit. You don't have to worry about the the stitches popping, but you can also use it in a garment, if you just wanted to sew it together normally or before you overlock. So that was really helpful. I definitely like to fit that way when I'm making stretch garments. Yeah. I always forget about that because we we talk about we've talked about that a few times and yeah I forget. Yeah, no, and I w every time I do it, I think I do it because obviously w we sell it at sewing gems, so I'm like, I'm just gonna borrow, yes perks of the job. shopping. Yeah, exactly. So I remember. but then every time I do it, I'm like, Yeah, this actually was a really good idea. This works really well. And you don't necessarily have to have like a matching thread if you're just using it for basting purposes. Yeah, just have one colour. And I think what did I use? Do you use it in the cover stitch as well? Like is is it does it work like that? I use it like a seriflop. In the which is another MetLub brand. And it's like a woolly nylon. and I did use that just in my lower looper. Yeah. and then in the I think in the needle threads I needles I just had I use Ressant thread actually. I just whatever I could find that was close, but I do find the Ressant sits really nicely in the I think Ressent is called something different overseas. I think it's called I can't think of it. Anyone? I know it's I think it's called Mara or something like that. Okay. Okay, cool. I love Rassant. It's the best. I I I I just I have other threads. I just never reach for them. Yeah, and they last so long as well. I think they're bigger than they're longer than all the colours. They're way bigger. They have lots of colours. And the thing I like about them is that they're cotton on the outside and then they have the polyester fine polyester filament inside. So it's got the strength of polyester. But it's got the feel and the look of cotton. So most of the things I make are, you know, natural fibers. So it just blends better. It sits. Because I find that if you use, you know, say a Gudamin or purpose thread or something like that, and then you especially if you're using linen or something, and then you go press it with like the linen setting on iron, it almost melts the threads. Yeah. And it sort of makes them more shiny. And then it's like, no. And it doesn't sit in the fabric in the same way. It doesn't like nestle into the fabric. It sits slightly on top. Do you know what I Yeah. And it's got the different sheen to it. Yeah, exactly. But that's getting super picky. Yeah, I know. look, thing from afar. Yeah. But I know. Yeah. But I mean, if you're going, you know, if you if you're sewing a lot with natural fibers, then it makes sense to choose the threads that look best with natural fibers. Absolutely. And then, if you're making something special you can bust out some special thread for that. Absolutely. But yeah, I'd not that's not to say throw out everything you have. Just probably using what you have is all better. Yeah. Absolutely Anyways, we could talk about thread all day long. We're so excited. It might be a pretty boring podcast. I don't know, maybe, maybe not. Let's move on. Yeah, I mean Sewing this top, yeah. It was a bit of a 'cause I'm like, no, I've made a mistake and then it's like maybe I should just cut a new one and start again. It's like, no, but I really like this fabric and I wanna wear it with this outfit and I'm already it's you know, a couple of days a go away until we have to do this podcast. So I just gotta I gotta keep going. Yeah, well you to you totally saved it. But just talk to me a little bit about how this so did you not look at the instructions, is that what happened? Or did you just start following them and you were like, it's not quite working for me. Well, I think well It wasn't that I I did read the instructions after I chose the pattern and printed it out and all that. Yeah. But from you know, when I when you looked it bought it when like you know, when I chose it, I thought in my mind it was gonna be s constructed one way. Yeah. And then and then I cut it out and then I went to read the instructions and then I was like, it needs elastic. I don't even have elastic. Yeah, okay. 'cause I was sewing at home and then most of my elastic's out of the office. And then I I was like, Okay, well now I can't do it. So I did the so shoulder seams, right? I'm like, I'll do what I can do, which was that and then and then I had to stop and then I had to get the elastic and then I came back and then put the elastic on and then I was like It's not working I don't like it. Mm it was too like I don't know if it the elastic wasn't tight enough or something. I wasn't pulling it in enough and it was quite wide and Yeah. And there was gonna be a lot of burritoing and stuff with the 'cause 'cause it's it was the bottom and everything and and then I because it was i I think it was just so choppy. Like, you know how sometimes you got everything. You know how they say to get your everything ready before you start. Well, I didn't do that and there therefore it was a it was kind of like tumultuous. And see that's that's But you know real world as well. You know, we can't always be Super prepared. Sometimes we have to take those opportunities and go into our sewing space and just make it work. Make it work. Exactly. And you did. You did exactly that. But it was one of those things where it was like, here's a dead end. And so I put it away. And then it was like, you know, I've been working on it for like weeks. And then I'm like, now I really gotta I gotta decide what I'm doing with this. And then, you know, I think that's good about this podcast because this may have just sat in the like the I don't know, what do you call it? Yeah, the unfinished whip. Work in progress or whatever. I've heard people call it like the naughty pile. The naughty pile. Could have sat in the naughty pile for a while because I was like indecisive about what I was gonna do with it. But I was like, no, I have to do this. You're wearing a top now. You know that saying like the you know the the book, you yeah you can't go under it and you can't go over it. You have to go through it. Yeah. And you did. And that's what I did. Now you've you're winning. And now I have a top. Exactly. It's not exactly the top. But I think it looks great. Yes. There's nothing wrong with the pattern. It was just it honestly is my unorganizedness that was the that was wrong. Yeah, absolutely. And also, about making things work for us, right as well. And that's part of the reason, most people choose to sew, I guess. That you can tweak things and make it work for you. And yeah, I think that's the beauty of it, really. And I actually I always look at the fibre mood patterns, but I've never sewn one before. So I I there's so many that I chose. I just chose things that I liked and put them in the cart and then I realized that lots of them were the fiber mood brand. So I am like drawn to their design. Aesthetic, yeah. Because it's European, isn't it? It is. And how did you find the instructions and everything to follow? Pretty good. Yeah, the instructions were fine to follow. Yeah. Yeah, great. And the pattern pieces were yeah, easy to cut out and all that sort of stuff. Great. And yeah. It was it was fine. It was just me. I the problem hi. It's me. I'm the problem. It's me. I'm sure it wasn't all you, Cutley. But yes, I'm happy with it. And actually I had to be careful because I did the gathering and then I did the neck hole and I thought, no. I didn't even check that I could fit it over my head. And it did just. Just. There you go. You know, I just eyeballed it and then I went, Well. It worked out, you know. So that's the main thing. Yeah. Can't put it over my head where I'm wearing my glasses though. it literally just it brushes my ears and my nose together. You gotta do your makeup after you put it on. Yeah, yeah, exactly. Exactly. But yeah, I ha I found that it was fun doing the gathers and the binding. Like it takes t you know, it takes time to do that. Yeah because it's d it's lined as well. So you know, doing had to sew them together to hold them together. Yep. And then I had to do, you know, th two rows of stitches and then pull them nice and evenly and then I kind of wanted more gathering at the front than at the back and then you know, I and then putting the binding on. Mm. It's it's like a slow process. So it I like it's meditative. Yeah. Well I would say your whole sew, your whole outfit has been it was quite a lengthy sew. Like the coat trousers don't come together quickly, do they? So I think you've Compared to my very quick knit sew, you've yeah, you had a lot more sewing ahead of you. So it's good you're enjoying the process. Yeah, after we sewed the fancy no, not fancy pants. That's the that's the label I put in it. after we sewed Yes, we need to talk about labels. Yeah. after last episode's Kite pants. Yes, I had a whole bunch of sojo energy. and I was like, I'm gonna sew those coat trousers. Nice. And I basically sewed them like I think Just after we recorded the podcast. So it was I just whizzed through them and then yeah. And then it took me a while to find a button. Well, it's perfect. I ha I went through my ancient hand me down button stash that's everybody I just found one of these buttons and it's just perfect, don't you? It's perfect. I haven't even washed them. See, you s can still see my Charco Only now you point it out. I couldn't see that before. The yellow charcoal. yeah, you're your top tall from Yeah, I love that. I love that one. Yeah, but you know, it washes out. It's just that I s stitched right over the line and that like Yeah, so usually you can just brush it off. Yeah, yeah. But yeah, I'm gonna chuck them in the wash. This is actually. Exactly, exactly. I shortened them a lot. I have to mention the label that I used in my dress because I actually asked Kylie to bring this in for me because I used my one in my dress and I wasn't gonna start taking it off in the middle of the podcast. But I actually opened my Rachel Burke label pack box and I found this in there, and I was just like so Happy and excited by the per perfect match of the colour of the label. I I do tend to pick my labels by the colour and how it kind of goes with the garment often. But not only that, like the sentiment of the label as well. I was like, that is so cute. And this is so cute. I think it's perfect. So I just wanted to show you like how good that match actually is. And it's sparkly. It's sparkly. All her labels are just so much fun. Like when I opened that box, I was like, This is amazing. I love them. I can't pick. Where did you sew it? Just at the back. Just in the back on the bra shelf. I put a label there and there. And they're both designed by the artist. Mm-hmm. That we have. We're all intrigued. Yes. Her name is Lisa. And yeah, so they're both Lisa labels. Nice. And they're very fun and cute. Awesome. And can I say, Sally? No. What the labels are. Okay. I've just been told that I cannot say not allowed. But at some point I will show you. I'll show you after December. After I'll show you the labels on this top on the day when we pop the calendar. How about that? That's fair. I think that's fair. Yes. We'll take that. Yes, because it's a secret until then. So when I don't know which day no. I know that the one at the back is quite Towards the end of the calendar labels. But that's okay. Can I give it away? The fun, the surprise. And this is another day. Okay. So they're gonna be on different days that they get it revealed. So I will reveal what's on the top at the same time as we reveal what's in the calendar. Okay. How about that? Exciting. Sounds good. I actually brought in to show you because I was away recently and I had the chance to go fabric shopping and it's just went to one of those iconic places. So I just wanted to show you my my fabric purchase because that's a nice bag. I think I said in a previous podcast that my my kind of like you know new new my resolution to myself, my New Year's resolution was going to be that I was going to do more fabric shopping when I went away. And I have managed a little bit. So I did go back to the UK to see some family and we were in London. And I managed to sneak a little visit into Liberty, which was really cool. Did have my children with me, which is never as much fun when you're fabric shopping, 'cause they were kind of enthusiastic about it for about five minutes and then it was like, Come on, Mom, you know. So I didn't buy a whole load. Yeah. And you know, I wanted time and I wanted to think about what I was Anyway, so I ended up just getting some really nice silk, and I thought I would bring it in and show you. and then maybe on a future podcast we might see this made into something, but don't ask me what yet. So I just really thought it was my colours. So it's silk, yeah. And is the store as magical as everyone says it's basically? It was it was lovely being there, it really was. Yeah. So this is the store. that's nice. Isn't it lovely? And it's blue. And it's blue and white. What do you think? So it's almost like a zebra print, right? Like little mini mini zebra print, but it's it's also kind of looks like Bows. What do you think it should be? Ooh, I love it. I don't know. Like Sending around through. It would make a really nice buyer skirt, but it was also making really nice how much have you got? I think it's two meters. Not enough. I did think about getting three, but I was a little bit tight for luggage space. And also, it was silk. So I was like, This is quite expensive. What is it gonna be? I'll just get two meters. Yeah. Anyway. You could make a is there enough to make a rope? That would be an It's too nice for a robe. Too nice for a robe. But it would be a nice robe. It would. you could make a shift dress, like a little yeah. Or y mm. Maybe not a bias because the pattern's so nice when you're holding it up like that way. I held it up and I was like, they're my colours. Surprise, surprise. Yeah. But I I I like I like the common. It's nice. Is it a crepe de sheen or a feel? It looks nice and thick. It's not a crepe. It I actually can't remember what I brought now, but it's it's a s it is hit a hundred percent silk and it's it's kinda like a satiny silky. Do you want a fill? Yes, I do. Hang on. Okay. I actually f feel like it's almost a light taffeta. Maybe. Because it's not it's not too shifty. This is gonna be a lot easier to sew with than, you know, like a crepe de chine or a Georgette or anything like that. Yeah, I think they're little bows. Yeah, it looks like a bow. I think you're right. Yeah, they are bows. It's just like geometric print, really. they are bows. They're beautiful. I love that. Good choice. My my show and tell. It says it's made in Italy. Well, that's always good. Yeah. Do you wash your silk? I think I will. Hand wash. Yeah. What do you do? Well, it depends what it is, I suppose. If it's something that I want to use as an everyday thing, I actually chuck it in the washing machine just so that it can do the whole shrink thing. And I even put it in the dryer. Yeah, okay. I like want to shrink it. Love it. So that it's shrunk. And then I can make the thing. Then you don't have to stress. And then I can Do you ever find that it changes the handle of the fabric when you do that? It feels the same, but it du it definitely loses some dye. Yeah. Okay. Like it doesn't what like especially black silk. Yeah, true. You notice it. But I kinda I don't know, it's like that everyday luxury of wearing silk during the day. Yeah. Or it's silk is generally like This fancy thing that you s special occasions. But I like the idea of wearing silk, you know, just for no reason. Just because it feels nice. Just because you can. Just because you can. And because when you're making something out of silk, yes, the fabric is more expensive. But then if you think about, you know, buying a silk garment, that's super expensive to buy and and you're gonna make it at a fraction of the cost. And only spend, you know, hours of your time. But we that's girl math, isn't it? I'm going with it. But also I expect it to probably be in my drawer for a couple of years before I actually am brave enough to make anything out of it. I feel like this fabric I need to make in something cheaper first. And then when I'm I'm happy, then I will go for it. But most likely I will open my fabric drawer and I'll be like, I've got to make something for the sojour episode. I'm gonna go for the silk and it could be a disaster, but you know, probably that's what will end up happening. Well the Ogden Cami is nice in a silk. That's true. Yes. And you can make it with whatever th size thickness straps that you like? Yes, I could. I could do that. I just find I love the Ogden Cammy, but I don't wear mine very often. Me neither. And I can't even tell I think it's because I find I need to go in a little bit at my waist and the Ogden is quite flowy. So I don't tend to reach for it very much. And all the ones I've made have been thin straps as well. So I would need to wear a strapless bra or no bra with it. So then I tend to think, I won't. I won't wear it today. That would be uncomfortable. So I I'd like the Ogden, but I don't know if it will be an Ogden. We'll have to see. I think that I have just decided that I like to be a bit more covered up. Yes. Than wearing like you know, thin straps. It's not that I I'm trying to hide anything. I just don't f I just feel more secure and comfortable and and I also think that, I just don't wanna show that much of my skin anymore. I don't know, it's just maybe a past forty thing. Maybe you're right. And it's not I don't know. I don't know why. I might might have to unpack that a bit in my own time. But yeah, I think it's just like I don't really wanna like I can't give it all give it away to people. It's my it's my body, I don't know. When I w when I realized that with this dress that I ha couldn't wear a bra, I did have a post forty thing where I was like, Really am I am I can I get away with not wearing a bra anymore? Is this a good thing? P I don't feel comfortable anymore, you know. So yeah, I I understand those thoughts, but you know, sod it. Yeah, exactly. Yeah. I mean, if it's hot enough, I'm gonna be wearing as little as possible, right? But yeah, I think I think I I'm also like a cold person. I get cold pretty easily. So I'd rather be o a little bit over over fabriced than under fabriced. Yeah. I'm I'm the same as you. I run cold all the time. I only have to be sat still for twenty minutes and I'm cold usually. Yes. So yeah, no, get that completely. Awesome. Awesome. Awesome. Right, should we do our top tools? Yes. Are we at that point? Yes. Do you want to start? yeah, well I'm gonna say my least favorite tool is elastic, just because Is Elastic a tool though? No, no, I was just being silly. Yeah, that's fair enough. and the my tool were came into the rescue. So my tool is Now I'll w this could be like an audio thing. I'm gonna give it a little yeah close your eyes if you want to make the noise of the tool and and see if you can guess what it is. I think that's pretty obvious. No, I don't think that if you were listening to that, you'd have no idea. Okay. All right. What about this? Okay. That's better. That's better. Come on guys. Okay. Ready? What is that? That's a clip. That's a clip. Yeah, it's a wonder clip or you know, I got a couple of I've got like actually just a var variety of brands and colours and things in here. But yeah, I like these clips. Why do you use them? I used I use it with the binding. Like when, you know, I I used the binding where you put it on the inside and then you Fold it over to enclose at the front. So that's the last row of stitches. Right. on the top side. And then yeah, I just I find that pins don't really they're just there's no good way of using pins in this way. If you're going on the side, then you end up stabbing yourself. Yeah, okay. And they don't glue does work for this, but I I just the the the clips just hold it exactly where it needs to. It just clamps it. And it kind of flattens the gathering as well. Yeah, that's So yes, and I yeah, I just these clips a lot and they were very handy and that was like the enjoyable because of the clips. So thank you clips. Yeah. You're my favorite this this month. Yes. What about you? What tool have you got? I brought in my sleeve board. Yes. this is a Judy's studio. I have the same one. and I just use this all the time. and not just for the obvious reasons either, I guess. I find it really useful for just I mean, obviously you can put a sleeve on here or a trouser leg on here, and you've only got one layer of the fabric. But you know, you can even be doing a dress zipper and you can lift the back. Off the front, and you know, you don't have to worry about pinning through multiple layers. it's really good for ironing and getting into like hard-to-reach areas. You've obviously got this more slightly pointy side here. you know, if I'm pressing seams open, like for example, when I was making this dress and I wanted to press the seams and get the the the seam allowance to go in one direction, you know, putting it over this. is just a really quick, easy way to lift it off the other. And I just use it all the time, find it a really useful pressing tool. I think pressing tools are one of those things that you don't need. Like you can sew without them. Yeah. But I think once you start investing in some of these things, it can really elevate your sewing, I guess the r the results that you're getting or the the finish that you get. yeah, and I just really love using my sleepboard. So well arguably you you actually spend more time pressing and getting ready to sew, then you actually do stitch yes the garment a lot of the time. So I mean having the right tools for that, you know, the thing that you spend the most time on. Yeah. I think that actually makes quite a lot of difference in the the finished product. Absolutely. I think it is worth investing in those tools. And there are lots of pressing tools. This is just one example, but yeah, this is a a good one for Yeah, so that's a fixed sleeve board. Yes. And you can get like Foldable sleeve boards. I've had those before and I had a good one, which was the prim one. And then I had a crappy one, which was like I guess I'm not gonna say the brand, but it was a cheaper one. We can probably guess. Yeah, it starts not to be. and and it like after, you know, vigorous pressing, it just gave out. Yeah. And I'm like That's frustrating. That sucks. But the prim one's good. But that one is even better because it's solid. It's solid. And you can't over press, you can't you're not breaking it. However, it does take up a lot more space. You can't fold away. So where do you keep it? Do you keep it on your ironing board? I usually keep it near to my iron board. If I'm, you know, having one of my tidy up moments and I put it away in the cupboard. But And if you've got a handy person that could they could probably make you one. Absolutely. And yeah, I mean it's just two bits of it's like three bits of wood. It is. It would be so easy to make. You just need to have someone just Take a photo of it or something and say, Can you make me one of these for Christmas? That would make me very happy. Well, you've been getting pretty handy recently, Carly. Well you've got time. I could do it, but you know. Yeah, fair. I also could make, you know, in a t shirt for my kids as well, but I'm not doing that, right? Like true, true. There's a difference between like what you can do and what you want and what you actually are able to do. And then I guess I was caught up a lot by that for a while and I was like, because I'm this sewing person, I can't buy clothes ever and I can't wear clothes that I haven't made and blah, blah, blah. And there's all these stories. But it's like, I'm not I'm no longer just stay-at-home mum who's making clothes and posting pictures of that. Like that that that was that was old then. That was old me. And now you know, I'm literally designing products. Making content, dealing with suppliers, all the things. And the podcast. Like just there's too many things. Yeah, you know, I can't I can't make everything. No, you can go shopping, you're allowed. Yes. Yes. And thrifting is good too. Thrifting is great. Yeah. So I've I've gotten past that. I've I don't have any guilt about that anymore. Good. Yeah. No, me neither. As much as I would like to not ever buy any fast fashion for my kids It's just not possible 'cause there's three of they grow so quickly and all that sort of stuff. And life gets in the way. Yeah. Absolutely. Yeah. We can only do what we're gonna do. I and I'm like not b I barely buy clothes for myself. It's only just yeah, you know, when I need to. And the other thing is as well, I mean, you know, almost teenagers they have ideas about what they want to wear as well. Yes, they brand names. They want brand names. And we can fight that to a point, but yeah, I don't think I'm up for having, you know, what is it they say, pick your battles. Yes. Yeah. Well okay, so now they're in that phase where maybe they just want to be like everyone else. Yeah. But after, you get through the teenagers, then sometimes you want to be different from everyone else. And maybe they'll come back around and say, Hey mum, could you make me this such and such thing that no I can't find at the shops? Like it might happen. I think it will happen. I've already seen it happen a little bit. So, my eldest is twelve, but going on I don't know what she's going on, but it's I don't know. Twenty twenty-four. She she I remember one time, I may have said this before on the podcast, but I, you know, got all excited. It's like, right, book week's coming up, what can I make you? and she sort of looked at me apologetically and said, Mum, do you think we could just be like everybody else and and buy it off the internet? And I was like, okay. And I thought that was kind of it. And then a few years later, she's in, you know, a grade six formal, and she's like, do you think you could make me this dress? So she's already starting to see the benefits, but she doesn't necessarily want it for her everyday clothes. She just wants to be able to, you know, pick out expensive silks and say, Could you turn that into something pretty? You know. She's got the right ideas. And how can I say now? I'm like, you want me to sew for you? Okay. It's because you've shown her that when you've got a special event, you go all out and make yourself this gorgeous gown and it's not like anybody else's. And that's what it's like when you're at school, you know. Yeah. You want to be like everyone else to a certain point, but then when it's graduation or formal or prom or whatever you call it, you kinda want to be different. And you don't want to be dressed just like someone else. So that's that's what matters too because those are those monuments. In the same dress as someone else. So we I've I don't know if I've ever had that had that experience, but yeah. What you call it in the UK? Prom or what do we call it? I don't do we even really have it? Do you graduation maybe? Well I don't know. Do you have like a special Yeah you call it formal? Yeah we call it formal here. I don't feel it's as big a thing though. Maybe I'm just out of touch. Did you what did you wear for yours? it was nothing overly exciting. It was just a s store brought black dress, I think. Very and I don't I mean, I went to sort of, you know, the local comprehensive school. So it wasn't like we had a big formal or anything like that. It was it was pretty underwhelming. Right. I don't remember it anyway, unless I've just, you know, etched it from my memory. But no. What was tell about yours. It sounds way more exciting. It is exciting, but I mean it's different, that's for sure. And no one else had the same thing. what did you wear? it was the I actually have it. My mum still has it. So I think we need to link the photo to this on the show notes. So I kind of like saw th you know, this was back in the day when magazines were like big, right? I worked at a news agency, so I got all the old magazines. Great. It was great. And I saw this dress and it was like on a runway or something. And then I had a dressmaker make this thing that didn't look anything like that runway dress. But it was these stripes of like a purple lace and then in between the purple lace was like a a sheer purple. so but then it was all lined with like a nude. So it was like it wa like it wa it wasn't see-through or anything like that, but it was just like I need to see this. Yeah. And then that part is fine. And it was like a whole like really like high neck. everything's very covered there, but at the back it had a low back and then 'cause it had this choker type of thing. And then so the back is the weird part. It had this br I think my my mum collected brooches and I saw this brooch and it was like purple crystals or something on it. I had the brooch and then coming down from the brooch was like three strings of pearls. Or four strings of something. Beautiful. Individual Like no I think I don't know it was too much. But you you you well how old would you have been? You're 18? Yes. Your 18 year old self was happy. And then the dressmaker made like a little matching bow tie for my date. Was she like rolling her eyes when you were telling her what you wanted? A bit. Yeah. I think so. Are you sure, darling? Yes. Yes. And and also like my mum, you know, the It's not like we went to like a nice fabric shop and chose these fabrics. And it's not like they were silk or anything. They were from the liquidation shop down down in the suburb where we lived. And it was like they just had stuff that they'd bought from shops that closed down. So you just never knew what you were gonna get there. And what did you end up with? Something nice or? Yeah. It was purple and stripey and lacy and It's a lot. Not lace. I don't even know if it was lacy. I think it was maybe like Had a pattern. It was like a pattern and then a a solid It kinda looked like it was it kinda looked like it was see through, but it wasn't because it had the nude line on it. it wasn't good. Anyway, we all we all need to see this guy. And then the other bad thing was that my date, he turned eighteen the night before. So then he actually came to my formal hungover. That's no good. No. Anyway. Satire. Trauma. This would have to go back and relive those years. I wouldn't I wouldn't, would you? No. no. No. I will I will I know I've got photos and I know that the dress exists. Okay. So I'll try and dig up something. I think you have to bring that in for a sojo episode. I reckon it'll probably fit me because I haven't grown. you're gonna wear it even better. I might I'll try and put it on. I don't think I haven't grown since I was sixteen. Okay. Like I'm short. Wow. Yeah, that's cool. I'd love to see it. And just a reminder that with the fold line being our sponsor for this episode, you can actually head to the fold line and you can download either Gemma's pattern or my pattern at a discounted price using the Sewing Club Podcast code, which is sewing club podcast, at checkout. And you will get a fifteen percent discount on those patterns. Yes. Yeah. Have fun looking through all of the patterns because we certainly did as well. Next month we will have a pattern review and let's hear from Sally. Thanks, Kylie and Jem. so in exciting news, the next pattern that the ladies are reviewing is drum roll, the Maritop by So La La, which is very exciting. So if you guys want to sew along, Anna from So La La has kindly contributed. 20% discount on this pattern, which is so generous. Thank you, Anna. yeah, so head there and grab a copy and join in the fun. Be sure to use the Sewing Club discount code, which is Sewing Club Podcast, as always, to get that discount. See you next time.